Long time no see old friend.
January 26th, 2009December 2008 saw my return to Mount Aconcagua : The 6962m Andean peak that defeated me last year.
Aconcagua is like an old friend, One that teaches you about the world and life and humanity by saying absolutely nothing at all. Like an old friend who annoys and tests you to the core, yet you keep going back.
Unfortunately once again i bring bad news:
My climbing partner Tim Bailey, who also joined me to climb Kosciuszko, was diagnosed with a Pulmonary Edaema at around 5500m , a very rare complication of altitude sickness which affects around 2% of mountaineers, and after returning to base camp, was evacuated by helicopter off the peak.
I continued alone attempting the youngest solo ascent of aconcagua. On my summit bid, i reached a few hundred metres off the summit, but the wind was too strong for one person to go on, and at -37 plus windchill there was no way i was going to risk going on all by myself despite feeling well. There was only a handfull of moutaineers attempting the summit that day, and none were close by.
I returned to high camp at around 6000m looking for a group to join onto for a second attempt the next day Of course i was gutted as i thought i had lost the chance of the summit yet again, and for a while was SEVERLY feeling the effects of altutude, but after some food and drink i was feeling suprisingly strong , but later that day i was approached by mountain rescue and was told my friend was seriously ill.
I had to make the incredibly hard decision whether to stay on aconcagua or return to base camp and on to the nearest city , 2 days hike and 4 hours by bus.
… Needless to say my friends will always be more important than any summit of any mountain so i decided to retreat off aconcagua and return to Mendoza to find Tim.
Tim had left all his kit high on the mountain,which left me to carry around 35+kg 6000ft down the peak , a hard task at sea level let alone at altitude. I ended up being assisted the last few hundred metres by 4 moutain rescue rangers who i am incredibly gratefull to. I then hiked the 26km out from base camp and returned to the Mendoza.
I am glad to let you know that Tim has completely recovered
For the second year in a row, aconcagua has tried and tested me to my absolute limits, and still has not let me ascend its final metres. Decisions are what moves life foward and we all have to keep making them whether they are right or wrong.
I will always stand by my decision to turn away from aconcagua in such easy reach of the summit.
My seven summits challege will of course continue though perhaps on a slightly longer timescale. I am still planning to climb Denali in june.
“It was nice to see you again old friend, we should do it again sometime , are you free next December?
Adios Aconcagua, From your old friend Ailsa”


















